I wonder if anyone still actually reads this thing. Since I only post when I am out of the country, I’ve decided to start blogging again. First of all, an update is in order. Since my last post I was, in chronological order, engaged, married, had a son, and taught for the first time. That’s a lot of life-changing events in the last year-and-a-half, and it’s nice that things have settled. Just three weeks ago, I moved to Vienna, Austria along with my wife and son. I was only in Austria for two days when I had to return to the States for my father’s funeral, and I stayed in Nevada for ten days. I returned back to Vienna Monday night, so I’ve been here for almost a week now.
We came to Vienna for a number of reasons. In no particular order, my wife grew up and has family here, the facilities for Byzantine studies are very good here, and I need to learn German for my dissertation work. Regarding that last point, I’m enrolled in a German course at a private school called Deutsch Akademie. My class is five days a week, Monday through Friday, from noon to three each afternoon. I’ve only been in class for a week, but I really enjoy it so far. My German, by the way, is not very good. I took two years of German as an undergraduate, and I’ve read a lot of German as a graduate student, but I’m a long way from being proficient in speaking and everyday situations. The course is at level B2, which is basically upper-intermediate (there are six levels, A1 being absolute beginner and C2 being completely fluent).
One of the big question-marks before we came to Vienna was whether or not I could get a visa. To summarize, US passport-holders who visit the EU are automatically granted a three-month stay. The passport-holder can travel anywhere within the EU (the area where cross-border is regulated under the Schengen Agreement) during this time. We plan to stay at least six months, so this was naturally a problem. My wife is a Polish and American citizen but is also a permanent resident of Austria, so she can stay in Austria as long as she wants. As an American, I wasn’t really sure how this situation would pan out, and in the months leading up to our departure I tried to apply for a visa as a family member (Familienangehöriger). The Austrian consulate in New York City, I’m sorry to say, was not very helpful, so I had to enter the country on the basic three-month tourist visa. Since then, however, I’ve been approved for a family-member visa, which lasts for twelve months and has to be renewed annually (big thanks to Iga for doing this—I would have been completely worthless dealing with the Austrian bureaucracy). Our son, who like Iga has American and Polish citizenship (doesn’t have the latter quite yet but will soon), has also been approved as a Permanent Resident. So far, so good.
This first post has been pretty boring, but hopefully future ones will be better. I’ll be discussing living and “working” in Austria, subjects which I don’t have that much to say about right now, but will in the near future.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Friday, August 15, 2008
Kars and Ani
So the highlight of my entire trip to eastern Turkey was a visit to Ani, regarded by many as the most impressive historical site in this half of the country. In order to get to Ani, I took a train from Erzurum to Kars. This time I was only on the train about six hours, but since Kars is the last stop on the line, the train arrived five hours past the scheduled time. Having now spent a considerable amount of time on the Turkish railway system, I can say this. In terms of value, trains are the cheapest way to travel in Turkey, quite a bit cheaper even than the buses. Though the trains are slow, for that same reason they generally make for a pleasant ride, which can't be said for many of the buses I've been on.
Once in Kars I checked it at a good hotel and then met up with up with an English-speaking guide suggested by "The Rough Guide to Turkey," Celil. He offered me a place on a group visit to Ani the next day, and then we discussed whether I'd be interested in seeing other monuments in the area. Of course I was, but given that I was travelling by myself and most tourists weren't interested in seeing the other monuments, in the end I visited only Ani. In the future, I would rent a car to circumvent the trouble of trying to organize groups of tourists to go to these various sites, as not many visitors to the region take the trouble to visit any sites besides Ani.
The next day, I piled into a van with nine other tourists and went to Ani. Ani was spectacular, but I will save a detailed description for later, as right now I cannot upload photos. Some observations about the site. Contrary to what my guidebook had led me to believe, Ani is no longer militarized at all. The kale, for instance, was completely off-limits to travelers as recently as a few years ago. This is no longer the case. Indeed, there is only one monastery perched atop a hill for which remains inaccessible.
My entire time at Ani there was a great deal of (re)construction occurring. This is both a good and a bad thing. It's good that the site is now receiving the attention it deserves, and the surviving frescoes in particular badly need restoration (I've heard such a restoration is currently in the works). In most of the cases I saw, however, the reconstruction of the site had been carried too far. The walls of the city, which were already substantial before recent work began, have now been augmented on a colossal scale by the reconstruction. As for buildings, the Seljuk palace and mosque along with the city cathedral have received the most attention so far. The Seljuk palace in particular now looks ridiculous, with hardly an original stone to be found in the entire building. There are differing schools of thought as to how to effect a reconstruction, and I understand the maximal restorationist viewpoint, but here it's been carried to extremes.
Notwithstanding the reconstruction, Ani is amazing. As mentioned, I'll save a detailed description for later.
Once in Kars I checked it at a good hotel and then met up with up with an English-speaking guide suggested by "The Rough Guide to Turkey," Celil. He offered me a place on a group visit to Ani the next day, and then we discussed whether I'd be interested in seeing other monuments in the area. Of course I was, but given that I was travelling by myself and most tourists weren't interested in seeing the other monuments, in the end I visited only Ani. In the future, I would rent a car to circumvent the trouble of trying to organize groups of tourists to go to these various sites, as not many visitors to the region take the trouble to visit any sites besides Ani.
The next day, I piled into a van with nine other tourists and went to Ani. Ani was spectacular, but I will save a detailed description for later, as right now I cannot upload photos. Some observations about the site. Contrary to what my guidebook had led me to believe, Ani is no longer militarized at all. The kale, for instance, was completely off-limits to travelers as recently as a few years ago. This is no longer the case. Indeed, there is only one monastery perched atop a hill for which remains inaccessible.
My entire time at Ani there was a great deal of (re)construction occurring. This is both a good and a bad thing. It's good that the site is now receiving the attention it deserves, and the surviving frescoes in particular badly need restoration (I've heard such a restoration is currently in the works). In most of the cases I saw, however, the reconstruction of the site had been carried too far. The walls of the city, which were already substantial before recent work began, have now been augmented on a colossal scale by the reconstruction. As for buildings, the Seljuk palace and mosque along with the city cathedral have received the most attention so far. The Seljuk palace in particular now looks ridiculous, with hardly an original stone to be found in the entire building. There are differing schools of thought as to how to effect a reconstruction, and I understand the maximal restorationist viewpoint, but here it's been carried to extremes.
Notwithstanding the reconstruction, Ani is amazing. As mentioned, I'll save a detailed description for later.
Monday, August 11, 2008
Erzurum
I left on a train from Ankara Sunday afternoon, and this same train arrived at Erzurum on Monday around 12:30 p.m. This arrival was close to an hour and a half behind schedule, but by Amtrak standards this is quite good. The train ride was pleasant, although since there was no sleeping car I had to make do with a seat. Nonetheless, the train trip was well worth it. The scenery on the second day in particular, between Sivas and Erzurum, was incredible. The rail line wound its way through numerous canyons and tunnels, following the course of the Eurphrates and then Arash rivers.
Once in Erzurum, I found a hotel my guide recommended, the Polat Hotel. I paid 35 lira for a room (a little expensive perhaps, but I hadn't slept a full night in a few days). Then I proceeded to explore the city proper. One thing that immediately struck me about Erzurum is that it is a much more conservative town than Ankara. Most of the women here wear some type of headscarf, and some even wear the chador, a black garment which leaves only the eyes and hands exposed (made famous through Iran). Additionally, most restaurants do not offer any alcohol, something I found out when I tried to find a place which served beer for lunch.
Erzurum's Byzantine name was Theodosiopolis, named after the emperor Theodosios II (the same emperor who built the second circuit of Istanbul's land walls). The city was of major importance to the Byzantines until it was captured by the Seljuks in the aftermath of the Battle of Mantzikert (1071). Despite the city's importance to the Byzantines, the sole monumental evidence of Byzantine occupation of the site of the present-day city is the kale, or hilltop fortress. This particular kale is quite large, perhaps 200 by 50 meters square, and was still used into the 19th and 20th centuries (the Russians captured Erzurum during World War I). Within the kale is a combination 12th-century Seljuk tomb and small mosque. A large tower, perhaps 50 meters high, stands over the kale. It is also a Seljuk construction, although obviously much improved in modern times.
Leaving the kale behind, I visited the numerous mosques within the city. The most impressive one by far is the Chifte Minareli Medrese. The Medrese is an enormous and imposing building, with two colorful towers, each about 30 meters high, standing over the entrance. The entrance gives way to a roofless courtyard, with a tomb on the other side. This is a strange-looking building, and it bears little resemblance to any other medrese I've ever seen.
Only slightly behind this medrese in architectural fancifulness is the Yakutiye Medressi, an early fourteenth-century Ilkhanid foundation. The exterior of the entrance is carved with stunning lattice work. This lattice work includes two facing lions beneath a double-headed eagle on each side of the entrance. The ubiquity of the double-headed eagle as a symbol throughout Anatolia's history is something I hadn't fully appreciated until this trip.
The other buildings in the city were not nearly as impressive as these two medreses. Having seen most of what there is to see in Erzurum, today I board a train at 11:00 to Kars, and I should arrive there in the early afternoon. I'll tour the monuments of Kars proper later today, and then tomorrow morning I plan to go to Ani (the whole reason I came to eastern Turkey in the first place). I'll update frequently in the coming days.
Once in Erzurum, I found a hotel my guide recommended, the Polat Hotel. I paid 35 lira for a room (a little expensive perhaps, but I hadn't slept a full night in a few days). Then I proceeded to explore the city proper. One thing that immediately struck me about Erzurum is that it is a much more conservative town than Ankara. Most of the women here wear some type of headscarf, and some even wear the chador, a black garment which leaves only the eyes and hands exposed (made famous through Iran). Additionally, most restaurants do not offer any alcohol, something I found out when I tried to find a place which served beer for lunch.
Erzurum's Byzantine name was Theodosiopolis, named after the emperor Theodosios II (the same emperor who built the second circuit of Istanbul's land walls). The city was of major importance to the Byzantines until it was captured by the Seljuks in the aftermath of the Battle of Mantzikert (1071). Despite the city's importance to the Byzantines, the sole monumental evidence of Byzantine occupation of the site of the present-day city is the kale, or hilltop fortress. This particular kale is quite large, perhaps 200 by 50 meters square, and was still used into the 19th and 20th centuries (the Russians captured Erzurum during World War I). Within the kale is a combination 12th-century Seljuk tomb and small mosque. A large tower, perhaps 50 meters high, stands over the kale. It is also a Seljuk construction, although obviously much improved in modern times.
Leaving the kale behind, I visited the numerous mosques within the city. The most impressive one by far is the Chifte Minareli Medrese. The Medrese is an enormous and imposing building, with two colorful towers, each about 30 meters high, standing over the entrance. The entrance gives way to a roofless courtyard, with a tomb on the other side. This is a strange-looking building, and it bears little resemblance to any other medrese I've ever seen.
Only slightly behind this medrese in architectural fancifulness is the Yakutiye Medressi, an early fourteenth-century Ilkhanid foundation. The exterior of the entrance is carved with stunning lattice work. This lattice work includes two facing lions beneath a double-headed eagle on each side of the entrance. The ubiquity of the double-headed eagle as a symbol throughout Anatolia's history is something I hadn't fully appreciated until this trip.
The other buildings in the city were not nearly as impressive as these two medreses. Having seen most of what there is to see in Erzurum, today I board a train at 11:00 to Kars, and I should arrive there in the early afternoon. I'll tour the monuments of Kars proper later today, and then tomorrow morning I plan to go to Ani (the whole reason I came to eastern Turkey in the first place). I'll update frequently in the coming days.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Friends, Rhomaioi, Countrymen
After a long hiatus, I'm able to post again. To be brief, I've spent the last month on the second year of the Avkat Archaeological Survey in Turkey. This year I led a team of field walkers and learned how to use a PDA and GPS unit (sort of). Learning to drive a stick shift in rural Turkey was probably more challenging than any technological marvel I had to use, and I really enjoy driving a stick now. It will take a while to get used to an automatic again. I visited the same areas as last year, although I can now add Chorum and Alacahoeyoek (a Hittite site) to the list. Currently I'm in Amasya, my favorite city in Turkey and birthplace of the geographer Strabo.
In the next few days I will travel to Ankara and then catch a train eastward to Kars. From Kars I will venture to Ani, a medieval Armenian city, now deserted, once known as the "City of 1,001 Churches." I also plan to visit the various Georgian, Selcuk, Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman monuments in the vicinity of Kars. From Kars, I will then take a bus south to Lake Van. On an island in Lake Van is a spectacular tenth-century Armenian church named Akdamar. I will visit Akdamar and other monuments in the Lake Van region (and maybe swim in this alpine lake as well). From Van I fly back to Ankara, and from Ankara by a series of connections back to Reno, Nevada. This will be a long and difficult journey, as I know only a little Turkish. But I really want to see eastern Turkey. I will post photos to my Picassa web albums so that you, gentle reader, may look at some of these amazing sites. Once I get back to the States I plan to create a more comprehensive account of my travels with photos where needed.
I apologize for the delays between entries, and I will make up for my long silence with a slew of posts in the coming weeks.
In the next few days I will travel to Ankara and then catch a train eastward to Kars. From Kars I will venture to Ani, a medieval Armenian city, now deserted, once known as the "City of 1,001 Churches." I also plan to visit the various Georgian, Selcuk, Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman monuments in the vicinity of Kars. From Kars, I will then take a bus south to Lake Van. On an island in Lake Van is a spectacular tenth-century Armenian church named Akdamar. I will visit Akdamar and other monuments in the Lake Van region (and maybe swim in this alpine lake as well). From Van I fly back to Ankara, and from Ankara by a series of connections back to Reno, Nevada. This will be a long and difficult journey, as I know only a little Turkish. But I really want to see eastern Turkey. I will post photos to my Picassa web albums so that you, gentle reader, may look at some of these amazing sites. Once I get back to the States I plan to create a more comprehensive account of my travels with photos where needed.
I apologize for the delays between entries, and I will make up for my long silence with a slew of posts in the coming weeks.
Sunday, March 2, 2008
General Exams and a Marathon
Well, I've now been studying for my general examinations for one full month. All students in the PhD program in History are required to take these exams at the end of the second year. So students spend almost the entire spring semester just studying for the examinations. I have some substantial reading lists to complete, but as long as I hack away at them each and every day I don't think my chances are too bad to pass.
In other news, I've decided to run the Marine Corps Marathon on 26 October this year. I've been running a lot, and I think that I'm not too far from being able to do a marathon as is (I've run as far as 20 miles in the past, albeit with great difficulty).
In other news, I've decided to run the Marine Corps Marathon on 26 October this year. I've been running a lot, and I think that I'm not too far from being able to do a marathon as is (I've run as far as 20 miles in the past, albeit with great difficulty).
Monday, December 17, 2007
It's Been Awhile
I haven't written anything on this blog since I was in Turkey. After I returned to the United States, I chose not to write anything more because I thought the purpose of the blog had been fulfilled; I no longer had any travels to recount, so there was no more reason to write. Yet I really enjoyed posting about my life; and even though I'm now back in Princeton and my life isn't nearly as exciting, I still want to keep friends and family abreast of what has been happening in my life.
Why don't I start where I left off? Avkat was a success. Preliminarily, I am on the list to return next year. We submitted the visa application for next summer about a month ago. This may not work out due to a summer dissertation-writing workshop I have to attend in Princeton, but given the opportunity I would love to go back. Along with a fellow graduate student, I purchased the complete Pimsleur language program for Turkish, which even used costs a whopping $180 (to be fair, that's a lot less than Rossetta Stone or a comprable program). I'd never used a purely audio approach to language-learning, but I have to admit it's useful thing, at least for my purposes, to know several hundred phrases and how to use them rather than having a comprehensive knowledge of the grammar of the language. A recently purchased Routledge grammar fills in the grammatical gaps where needed.
Classes have been over for almost a week now. This last semester I took three courses: Medieval Rural History, Byzantium in the Eleventh Century, and Intermediate Classical Armenian. I also sat in on John Haldon's undergraduate Byzantine History class. In terms of coursework, this has been my best semester at Princeton; all three courses were excellent. I'm writing my required second-year research paper right now, an analysis of an eleventh-century Byzantine general's letters and how they can contribute to our understanding of the state of the Empire's eastern frontier in the middle of the 1000s. The letters are written in Classical Armenian, and only three have been translated into any widely-understood modern language; three or four more have been translated into Modern Armenian, but not many scholars in my field (Byzantine History) can read Modern Eastern or Western Armenian, nor do they have easy access to much of the secondary literature which is published currently in Armenia. Therefore his work is almost never cited when scholars write about eleventh-century Byzantium. His work, in addition to other contemporaneous authors, could be the basis of a reevaluation of our understanding of mid-eleventh century Byzantine history. So I'm quite excited about that. Who knows, could even be a dissertation topic.
Why don't I start where I left off? Avkat was a success. Preliminarily, I am on the list to return next year. We submitted the visa application for next summer about a month ago. This may not work out due to a summer dissertation-writing workshop I have to attend in Princeton, but given the opportunity I would love to go back. Along with a fellow graduate student, I purchased the complete Pimsleur language program for Turkish, which even used costs a whopping $180 (to be fair, that's a lot less than Rossetta Stone or a comprable program). I'd never used a purely audio approach to language-learning, but I have to admit it's useful thing, at least for my purposes, to know several hundred phrases and how to use them rather than having a comprehensive knowledge of the grammar of the language. A recently purchased Routledge grammar fills in the grammatical gaps where needed.
Classes have been over for almost a week now. This last semester I took three courses: Medieval Rural History, Byzantium in the Eleventh Century, and Intermediate Classical Armenian. I also sat in on John Haldon's undergraduate Byzantine History class. In terms of coursework, this has been my best semester at Princeton; all three courses were excellent. I'm writing my required second-year research paper right now, an analysis of an eleventh-century Byzantine general's letters and how they can contribute to our understanding of the state of the Empire's eastern frontier in the middle of the 1000s. The letters are written in Classical Armenian, and only three have been translated into any widely-understood modern language; three or four more have been translated into Modern Armenian, but not many scholars in my field (Byzantine History) can read Modern Eastern or Western Armenian, nor do they have easy access to much of the secondary literature which is published currently in Armenia. Therefore his work is almost never cited when scholars write about eleventh-century Byzantium. His work, in addition to other contemporaneous authors, could be the basis of a reevaluation of our understanding of mid-eleventh century Byzantine history. So I'm quite excited about that. Who knows, could even be a dissertation topic.
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Avkat
After almost two months in Athens, I left Greece last Friday and flew to Ankara via Istanbul. Unfortunately, I was unable to see most of the major sights in the city since I wasn't there for long. After meeting up with the rest of the survey archaeological team, we drove to a Mejitozu, where I am now staying, to begin a diachronic project in the nearby town of Avkat.
I actually haven't done too much so far; today was my first full day of "field walking," in which a line of people walks across a designated area in a straight line attempting to spot and then pick up pieces of ceramics, stone tools, and other items of interest. The weather hasn't been too bad--the highs are in the mid-80s with light breezes-- and it cools down significantly at night. Since I don't have regular internet access, I won't be posting much until after the survey in September. I would love to go into more detail, but I just don't have the time to do right now.
I actually haven't done too much so far; today was my first full day of "field walking," in which a line of people walks across a designated area in a straight line attempting to spot and then pick up pieces of ceramics, stone tools, and other items of interest. The weather hasn't been too bad--the highs are in the mid-80s with light breezes-- and it cools down significantly at night. Since I don't have regular internet access, I won't be posting much until after the survey in September. I would love to go into more detail, but I just don't have the time to do right now.
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